May 13, 2012

Farewell Riverdance! Part II

 The next morning I boarded the ferry at Queen's Quay and hopped over to the Toronto Islands.  The islands comprise the largest urban car-free community in North America, however it is not nearly as quaint as Mackinac Island. I got off at Ward’s Island and walked along the boardwalk by the water.
I learned that in 1867 the City of Toronto acquired the islands from the federal government, and the land was divided into lots, allowing cottages, amusement areas and resort hotels to be built (including the prestigious Royal Canadian Yacht Club). At its peak in the 1950s, the Island residential community was made up of some 630 cottages and homes, in addition to such amenities as a movie theatre, a bowling alley, stores, hotels, and dance halls. In 1953, the Metropolitan Toronto Council decided to remove the community and replace it with parkland because construction of the Gardiner Expressway had removed many acres of recreational land along the Toronto waterfront, and they wanted the Islands to replace the acreage. 
Most homes were razed but for a few hundred and after years of legal fights, Islanders are now allowed to stay in their homes. I was actually expecting the islands to be ritzy as I was picturing the mansions of the Thousand Islands in my head but most of them are pretty decrepit I thought. 
 
After wandering around I was fairly chilled so I sought refuge at St. Andrew’s by the Lake. To my delight they were doing a mass at 10:30 so I decided to stick around for service. It was so delightful! 
Everyone said hello to me and the pastor introduced me and welcomed me (I even got invited to stick around for a planning meeting for the Strawberry Festival!). As service started, one of the parishioners passed me her program and hymnal as I hadn’t picked them up. Communion consisted of us walking up to the altar and standing in a semi-circle while the pastor passed out chunks of bread. Despite only having about 12 people, it was one of the nicest church services I’ve ever been to. I highly recommend it if you are wandering around the Toronto Islands on a Sunday.
Ned Hanlan
I continued my island wandering by walking over to the Gibraltar Point Lighthouse.It is the oldest existing lighthouse on the Great Lakes. I thought this lighthouse was really unique because it once stood on the shore but over time sand has built up in front of it so that it now stands about 100 m inland. Usually lighthouses have to get moved because of erosion but this one was the opposite. It was a very cute little lighthouse. I then made the walk over to Hanlan’s point to catch the ferry back (named for Ned Hanlan who was a World Champion professional sculler). On the road, there were several markers warning of a clothing optional beach. This struck me as really funny because the Toronto International Airport is on one of the islands and the flight path is directly over that nude beach.
 
Waiting for the ferry I checked out Babe Ruth’s First Professional Home Run Plaque. In 1897, the a stadium was built at Hanlan’s point for the Toronto Maple Leaf baseball team. The stadium was rebuilt several times over the years, and in 1914, Babe Ruth hit his first professional home run into the waters of Lake Ontario from this stadium. In the 1920s the Maple Leaf team moved to a new stadium on the mainland. I really enjoyed the Islands but I would love to come back in the summer to experience them in their glory.
My favorite part of the islands was the incredible view of the Toronto skyline.
 
It was kind of weird to be pretty much the only one on the Islands, in fact I was the only one on the ferry back to the mainland at Hanlan’s point. It was now time to leave Toronto and head back home. Outside of Hamilton, I stopped at the Spencer Gorge Conservation Area to check out Webster and Tews falls. I was actually surprised at how tall Tew’s Falls are (135 feet).
The sun had finally come out and it was a really nice spot to stop and enjoy. I headed back across the border (remembering to stop this time ;) and made it home by early evening.  It was a really great trip and it was so nice to slip out of the U.S for a weekend.

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